The Newly Minimalist 37mm AP Royal Oak
In case the extensive Royal Oak content on the website doesn’t make it clear, Audemars Piguet is celebrating the 50th anniversary of its base model. As part of the celebration, it has given some models a radical makeover, while others have been gradually revamped. The new update to the Royal Oak 37mm Time and Date represents something in between. AP has quietly made some subtle, yet somewhat substantial changes in the medium-sized 37mm version of the Royal Oak.
The replica watches are available in a variety of metals and finishes, from steel to rose gold to two-tone (steel and rose gold), some with ice diamonds. The new reference number is 15550, an update of the 15450, which was the entry reference in the 37 mm size. For this anniversary, that size remains. The famous bracelet has also received some minor updates. The first four links are now trapezoidal, which in turn accentuates the thinness and taper of the bracelet. In addition to its slimmer profile, the bracelet is actually thinner and lighter. Originally introduced on the rose gold model, this new design is now available for the first time on the steel model.
With a plethora of new ideas in terms of appearance, AP has also ensured an upgrade to the engine. The first sign of this is a decoration on almost all the new Royal Oak “anniversary” models. A 22-carat gold oscillating weight (rotor) bears a specially designed 50th-anniversary logo. Each rotor is color-matched to the watch case in which it sits. The brand says these rotors will be produced within the watch during 2022 to celebrate the event.
I happen to be a dial-first kind of guy – with a penchant for typography. Sure, it’s a shame to see the watch lose some of its energy and added visual interest, but it’s not unprecedented. For starters, the entry-level 34mm Royal Oak – which Jon Bues wrote about late last year – only displays the brand logo and lettering. This new 37mm model goes the extra mile and features alone, a gold, commemorative 50th-anniversary app badge.
While AP touts the new movement in these replica watches as brand new, it’s actually a minor variation on a movement we’ve seen before. 5900 is a Voucher-made movement that replaces the 5800 movements used in the 37mm ceramic Royal Oak. There is no doubt that it is an updated version of the previous 3120 movements within the 37mm collection. Then there’s the rotor logo, which I’m sure will get a lot of attention. On a watch with such classic, vintage appeal, the 50th-anniversary logo feels unnecessarily modern. Fortunately, it’s located in the part of the fake watch that only your wrist can see.
Now you see, at the end of the day, the Royal Oak is produced in a variety of sizes and dial variations. There are different versions for everyone’s interests and use. For its 50th anniversary, AP thought it would be appropriate to make its 37mm collection even more unique and independent. There is nothing wrong with that.
